Lionel Terray (1921–1965)

Conquistadors of the Useless is something of a cult classic. First published in French in 1961, it was for a long time unavailable in English, then after translation, it went out of print with copies going for over $1000, helped by its later inclusion in the National Geographic Outdoor list. Not long after publication, Terray died while climbing in France. The book then is a scope into the mind of a soon to be dead man who struggled with why he climbed, saw so many others die, almost died many times. But it is not morbid, Terray is full of life, such are the sharp contrasts of this sport, way of life.

Terray came of age when climbing transitioned from fragile hemp rope and clod-hopper nail boots to modern technology and techniques, as such, he was first ascent to many climbs or nearly so. They were superstars in the days after the war, doing things people thought insane and impossible, the book gives a sense of the fraternity of climbers in the Alps during the 40s and 50s. Remember 'The Eiger Sanction'? Well that sort of time period and place is what this concerns but for real. This is a long book and the early sections are not so great, but once he started on the Big Walls it takes off. The interlude of WWII is interesting as he sneaks up on Germans from mountain tops they didn't think anyone could climb, only to have his gun freeze! So many stories. This is a must read for climbers, NatGeo completionists, or really anyone who likes good stories, Terray is a likeable, down to earth character. He influenced later climbers and outdoors people including Douglas Tompkins, founder of The North Face company - a 2010 film about Tompkins is called 180 Degrees South: Conquerors of the Useless a hommage to Terray's book.… (mer)